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| Latex garments can be prohibitively expensive in some cases, but if properly cared for, they can last for a number of years. I still have the first item I ever received, which was in 1996, but I have also suffered the heartbreak of the complete failure of a number of pieces as well. I don't consider myself the ultimate authority on the wear and care of latex, but I would like to pass along some of the things that I have learned about wearing it and working with it. |
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Latex is a naturally occurring substance. It starts out as a milky, viscous liquid contained in the Hevea Braziliensis tree. It is not actually the sap of the tree, but is found in a layer closer to the bark than the sap. After harvesting, ammonia is added to the liquid latex to prevent it from coagulating. The resultant mixture is then filtered and concentrated. Pigment is added prior to curing the latex and rolling it into sheets.
Most latex clothing is made from latex sheet. Patterns are laid out, cut, and assembled with adhesive. Certain items such as gloves, stockings, and some hoods are moulded. In this process, a form is dipped in liquid latex and then allowed to dry. In assembling garments from sheet stock, the adhesive must be capable of creating a solvent bond which partially melts each of the surfaces which are being joined. If this is not done, then the joints or seams will tend to fail under stress. These principles come into play when attempting to repair damaged latex, which is covered later in this article. |
| Although latex stretches easily, it is subject to tearing under stress. The material also has a memory. This can be observed in such garments as stockings. Fingertip impressions can be left in the material from pulling them on, particularly if the garments are older. Latex under stress is also particularly susceptible to failure from punctures. A single pinhole can rapidly turn into a catastrophic tear. Even heavier weight latex is not immune to this. |
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The key to wearing latex is lubrication. Some people use talcum powder for this purpose. In my opinion this is too messy, and doesn't really do a satisfactory job. It can also lead to ugly white trails around cuffs and neck holes when sweat mixes with the powder and begins to seep out. Several years ago, I learned about silicone-based lubricants, such as Kult and Eros. They work wonderfully, but are very pricey. I did more investigation, and discovered Millennium, made by ID, the same company that makes Glide and Wet. Millennium is silicone based, only slightly less slippery than the European brands, and far less expensive. Using a liquid lube is far less messy than powder. Apply it to the inside of the garment and spread it by lightly rubbing the material together. Also apply a light coating it to the skin, and rub it in.
The silicone lubes can also be used for protecting and polishing latex to a high sheen. I have tried food grade silicone spray, and even STP "Son of a Gun" rubber protectants, but none have worked as well as the lube itself. I have also used inexpensive "latex shine" spray, and have actually had fairly good results with it as well in terms of shine, but a great deal of light buffing with a soft, lint-free cloth is usually required. One thing to be aware of, is that just as some people are allergic to latex itself, others may be allergic to silicone. If there are any doubts about using it, don't do so. |
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After wear, latex should always be cleaned and cared for. Skin oils will eventually begin to break the material down if they are not removed. I perform a simple cleaning after each wearing, and periodically I do a more intensive cleaning on my gear. After each wearing, I immediately turn the garments inside out and rinse them off under cold running water. I wipe them with a soft lint-free cloth, and then rinse again. I then hang them over a plastic-coated expandable closet rod in the bathtub to dry. When the garments are dry, I turn them right-side out, and repeat the process. After they are completely dry, I prepare them inside and out with a light application of silicone lubricant. For storage, I place each item into a 1 gallon zip-locking bag (or 2 1/2 gallon for catsuits), and put them into a light-proof black plastic tub. Storing latex in a lightproof environment will help prolong their lifespan, as UV light can damage it over time.
For a more intense cleaning, I wash each item by hand with plain Ivory bar soap, making sure that all residue has been removed before drying. I then follow the steps as described above for storage. |
| The hunt for a usable method for repairing damaged latex garments can be like the search for the Holy Grail among rubberists. I've read a number of methods, and tried a number of experiments with scraps from unrepairable tears. The methods I've outlined below don't always work, depending on the age and surface finish of the latex, but I have managed to extend the lifespan of several items by more than 3 years by using them. |
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As I mentioned in the construction section, the most important factor in repairing latex is finding an adhesive that will create a solvent bond, without dissolving the latex. I've read that rubber cement, thinned in a ratio of 1:1 with cement thinner works, but I've not had success with this method. The adhesive I have used successfully came from the Latexa latex repair kit. This essentially seems to be a bicycle tire repair kit from Denmark with a few scraps of latex, some powder, and a sponge brush thrown in. It was more expensive than it should have been, but the adhesive has shown itself to be excellent.
I can make no guarantee that any of these methods will work in any individual case, and I can take no responsibility if your results using these methods are unsatisfactory. Use at your own risk. |
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To repair a pinhole:
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| The repair procedure for a linear tear is similar, with one important addition. Use a sharp leather punch to place a round hole at each end of the tear. This will help prevent the tear from continuing out past the end of the patch. The patch should be oval-shaped, and at least 1/4 inch wider than the tear on each side. |
| Remember, even if your repair attempts are unsuccessful, never discard a torn garment. They can be used to make patches for other repairs, or even salvaged into another usable garment. I had a catastrophic tearout in the leg of a catsuit. Using sharp scissors, I was able to turn the top half into a long-sleeve shirt. |
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All of the above information is based on my own experiences over the last seven years of handling and wearing latex. I hope that with this article, I can save others from some of the frustration I have encountered.
Vargr |